Baptism by Cream

We tried a new recipe this week, in which cream played a starring role. I can’t even blame it on Ben. It was all me. I fell prey to the enticing photo in the NYT cooking section and couldn’t resist the idea of Cheesy Hasselback Potato Gratin (Recipe by J. Kenji Lopez-Alt). I am a huge fan of scalloped potatoes, but have always felt a little let down by the lack of a crispy top. This recipe solved the problem. Every bite is a mixture of crispy potato edges on top and custardy, creamy potato below. After slicing the potatoes thinly, you swish them around with your hands in a mixture of cream and fancy cheese. Full immersion. Then you gather up the slices into neat stacks and place them vertically in the baking dish, cramming them tightly into rows. Put those potatoes on the straight and narrow. When all potato slices are standing at attention, you pour the remaining cream mixture over them. Onward Christian soldiers. Bake them at 400º tightly covered for 30 minutes, uncovered for 30 minutes, then top with an ounce each of grated Gruyere and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheeses and bake for another 30 minutes. This recipe may just make a believer out of you.

Our baptismal font included 2 cups of heavy cream (judge not lest ye be judged), a few minced cloves of garlic, 2 ounces finely grated Gruyere cheese, 1 ounce finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, 1 tablespoon fresh chopped thyme leaves, 1 1/2 teaspoons salt, and 1 teaspoon pepper.

What did Ben think of the potatoes, you ask? Well, they may have been his rumspringa. He dabbled with the cream-laden spuds, but when asked if he wanted more, he pulled his classic line, “I like it. It’s too much.” This is usually what he says when he doesn’t like something, but he doesn’t want to hurt your feelings. Here it was just that too much cream is too much cream. You forget who you are when your head is addled with calories like that. Best to go back to what you know. Ranch potatoes.

I do see his point. The potatoes were heavenly, but two cups of cream? That’s no way to live! Seriously, you likely won’t see seventy if this goes onto your regular rotation. I am thinking of using this method (would that make me a Methodist?) but substituting in sweet potatoes for potatoes, and coconut milk for heavy cream. I don’t yet know how I will reconcile cheese with sweet potatoes. It sounds like heresy. I will try to work out my inner conflicts and let you know the results.