Mapo Dofu and Xichuan Pepper Bread (“square chicken” and Chinese bread)

Both these recipes come from a wonderful cookbook called Flatbreads and Flavors. Phil believes that his rebranding of tofu as “square chicken” was a moment of parenting genius. Others feel he may have woven a troublesome tapestry of culinary lies. In any case, Ben isn’t easily fooled, and harbored a deep suspicion of “toad food” for awhile, but how mad can you stay at a tofu dish that contains sausage too? Ben favors any dish made with “joy” sauce (soy sauce), so this dish was put on the menu this week. Anyway, you have to be happy when making something with joy sauce. Right?

Mapo Dofu

1/4 cup dried mushrooms

1 cup boiling water

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh ginger (one 2-inch piece)

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1/2 teaspoon dried chili pepper flakes

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 teaspoon rice vinegar

2 tablespoons peanut or vegetable oil

1/4 pound lean ground pork

3 scallions, finely chopped

3 large squares firm tofu, cut into 3/4 inch squares (14 oz.)

2 tablespoons soy sauce, diluted with 1/4 cup water

1/2 teaspoon sugar

1 teaspoon cornstarch, dissolved in 1/4 cup cold water

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil

1. Soak the mushrooms in the boiling water for 20 minutes.
2. In a small bowl, mash the ginger and garlic to a fine paste and set aside.
3. Roast the chili flakes in a dry skillet for a few minutes until fragrant, and then mix with salt, oil and vinegar to make a paste.
4. Drain and chop the rehydrated mushrooms.
5. Get everything ready before starting to cook.
6. Heat a wok or large skillet over high heat. When hot, pour in the oil and swirl around to coat. Stir-fry garlic and ginger mixture over medium-high heat for 30 seconds.
7. Add chili paste and mushrooms and stir-fry another 30 seconds.
8. Add meat and cook for 2-3 minutes, stirring and breaking up.
9. Add scallions and stir-fry for 30 seconds.
10. Add the tofu and mix gently.
11. Add the diluted soy sauce and sugar.
12. Raise the heat, add the dissolved cornstarch, and bring to a boil. Lower heat to medium and let simmer for 2-3 minutes.
13. Add the black pepper and sesame oil and remove from heat. Serve hot or at room temperature with rice and/or pepper bread.

What we really love is the Xichuan Pepper Bread, but we modify it because Xichuan peppercorns are not readily available here and they numb your mouth. Ben’s aunt Mary brought us back some from China, but we stick with black pepper, which we understand is completely different. The bread is chewy, delicious, and unlike anything we’ve had in a Chinese restaurant before. We have also modified the mapo dofu to accommodate our tastes and available ingredients.

“Chinese Bread”

3 cups flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup boiling water

1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons cold water

1 generous tablespoon peanut oil

1 teaspoon ground black pepper

1 cup finely chopped scallions

1. Place the flour, baking powder, and salt in a food processor and pulse to mix well. With the motor running, pour the boiling water in a thin stream through the feed tube, then add the cold water and process until the mixture forms a ball. Process for 1 minute longer, then turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface. Knead briefly, then cover and let sit for 15 minutes.
2. Divide the dough into 8 equal pieces. Working with one piece at a time, leaving the others covered, roll out the dough on a lightly floured surface to a circle 8 inches in diameter.  Spread 1/2 teaspoon oil on the bread, then sprinkle on 1/8 teaspoon pepper and 2 tablespoons scallions.
3. Roll the bread up like a scroll, as tightly as possible.
4. Coil the tube you just made in a tight spiral, pinching the end to the coil.
5. Gently roll the bread out again to about a 6 inch round. I always have scallion and oil leaking out. Repeat rolling with all the pieces of dough.
6. Heat a heavy skillet over medium heat, lightly oil it, reduce heat to medium-low, and cook bread (one at a time) for about 3 minutes per side until it is flecked with light brown.
7. Remove to rack briefly and then cover with a clean towel to keep warm. Always serve warm.

One variation we discovered is to substitute that tiny bit of Chinese carry-out leftovers (chopped finely) for the oil, pepper and scallions.

In the spirit of full disclosure, Ben’s role in this dinner was more limited than some. He was the idea man, the guy who lined up all our little bowls for quick action once the oil was hot, the “square chicken” dispenser, and sprinkler of green onions and pepper on the bread. Or course, it goes without saying, that when it comes to moral support, Ben’s my man.